WINTERIZING
: All boat motors need to be winterized -- some MUCH more than others !! The
following steps should be followed for a minimum winterization:
1) Add a fuel conditioner to the fuel system. (this keeps the gas from going
"stale" over winter while also helping to clean the system and remove moisture)
2) Start and run the motor until warmed up. (make sure engine has a source of
cooling water--NEVER start a marine engine without water going through It-) After warming
the engine, "FOG" It with a storage-fogging oil. [this is a light oil packaged
in an aerosol can that when squirted out, "foams up".] The fogging oil is
normally Injected directly Into the carburetor intakes while the engine is running at a
fast Idle. This coats all of the Internal parts of the engine with a film of oil to
prevent surface rust from forming on them while sitting Idle. We firmly believe this Is
the easiest and best way to prolong the life of your motor: It is ESSENTIAL for outboards
and saves alot of expensive problems with I/O,s also.
3) Change the Gearlube. NOTE: gearlube should be an "amber - oil" color with no
water In It- Milky colored gearlube usually means it has water mixed in with It. If your
gearlube Is dark colored (gray to black) It Is usually a sign of hard use or a long
overdue lube change. A few hints-- a)make sure you have the correct gearlube for your
gearcase - they are NOT all alike. b) when
draining the lube out
remove both upper and lower "slotted" screws [never remove any
"Phillips" screws], drain Into an appropriate container and then refill from the
bottom until it comes out the top screw- (Yes, from the bottom to the top) This allows all
the air to vent out assuring the
gearcase Is full of
lube. c) gearcases are not supposed to have ANY water In them -- as little as a
tablespoonful can start bearings to corrode and destroy a gearcase.
4) Antifreeze -- (All of you outboard owners can skip this step -- outboards when
hung vertical out of the water will self-drain all of the water passages) ALL Inboard and
inboard-outboard motors must be drained, Including "closed cooling system"
engines that run coolant in them. (they will not need the engine block drained, but they
will still require the heat exchanger and manifolds to be drained) We drain all engine
block and exhaust passage petcocks then refill the entire system with an antifreeze
solution. Note: we are now using a biodegradable (in fact It's drinkable !) antifreeze In
all of our boat winterizatlons. This antifreeze Is good for everyone --It's economical,
easy to handle, and It doesn't harm the rivers and lakes the
boats will run through
in the spring.
5) Storage -- Your boat Is always better off being stored for the winter;Snow, Ice and
wind really take their toll on a boats appearance. If you cannot store your boat Inside,
cover It carefully and watch out for "puddling" on the cover over winter. We've
seen a number of boat tops collapsed and even a few trailer axles bent from ice and snow
accumulating in them over winter.
We handle ALL the products you need to get your boat ready for winter - Hull cleaner; pontoon tube cleaner; Wax; Fogging oil; Fuel conditioner; Gearlube; Wheel bearing grease; etc. Or, we will be glad to do as much or as little of this as you wish. We wash, wax, clean, winterize and store boats. We also offer a complete pickup and delivery service (Including pontoon boats).
last updated 04/01/2007